Monday, August 17, 2015

Shampoo Basics II: Types of Shampoo

We are living in the age of options on top of options. Sometimes its hard to know how to maneuver thru so many choices. Finding a shampoo sounds simple, after all. its just soap right? But it can be really difficult. Deciding what cleansing product you should purchase depends on several factors such as your hair type and whether you gravitate more towards organic products or prefer heavily scented products, medicated shampoo or looking for a "fixer" product to address a condition or disorder. Lets not forget the main factor  for most people - how much does it cost? While there are those that have unlimited or generous budgets to spend on their beauty products, many people do not have that luxury but still want to look great and end up with the desired result.

A good shampoo should thoroughly cleanse the scalp of dirt, sweat, oils and products while leaving the hair looking healthy, shiny and soft. While I will discuss in greater detail the properties of different ingredients found in shampoos in another article, this particular article will be dealing solely with understanding what are the different types of shampoos, and how and when to use them. Below I have compiled a list of all the categories of shampoos available on the market, their individual uses and even a few product recommendations and links in each category.  If you are confused by the all the brands and fancy labels on the market, then you must read this article. Please be advised that this article should merely serve as a general guide. Always follow manufacturer directions for proper usage.

Clarifying Shampoo
These are shampoos used for deep cleansing if for example, you use a lot of product to maintain your hairstyle.  Often these shampoos are used before getting a chemical process such as Keratin or Straightening treatments. Clarifying shampoos are not recommended for use if you wash your hair every couple of days. These are better used once per week or even every two weeks. Using too often can really strip the hair of its natural oils and can be a bit harsh. Apple cider vinegar is often an ingredient in clarifying shampoos.
Recommended Products: 
Bumble and bumble Sunday Shampoo
Philip B Lavender Hair & Body Shampoo
Rene Furterer Curbicia Lightness Regulating Shampoo

Acid Balanced Shampoo
An acid balanced Shampoo should be used after any chemical process. These process contain active agents which are highly alkaline and the hair must be brought down to its natural level of 4.5-5.5 ph. An acid balanced shampoo will smooth the cuticle and prevent additional loss of moisture. 
Recommended Products: 

Medicated Shampoo
These types of shampoos can be sold over the counter, prescribed by a doctor or recommended by a cosmetologist. Medicated shampoos are used to relieve excessive itching, flaking or other condition of the scalp like bacteria and fungal infections. Medicated shampoos are also needed to combat lice, scabies, mites  or other vermin. Often the active ingredient is an anti -microbial such as some form of zinc or selenium. Botanical oils such as peppermint tea tree, eucalyptus may be an ingredient to soothe itching.
Recommended Products: 

Conditioning Shampoo
Also known as a moisturizing shampoo, these contain humectant and emollient agents for hydration and protein to promote elasticity. Conditioning shampoos are vital to hair which has been subjected to chemical processing like bleaching, color, relaxers or perms have had protein and moisture stripped from the hair. Moisturizing shampoos can bring life and volume back to the hair. However, take caution with heavy conditioners so that the hair is not weighed down and becomes lifeless.
Recommended Products: 
Alterna Caviar Anti-Aging - Replenishing Moisture ShampooBain Vitalisant B - Shampoo for Dry, Coloured, Sensitive HairBlushing Orange ShampooKlorane Nourishing Shampoo with Mango Butter
Malin + Goetz Gentle Neroli Shampoo

Color Shampoo
A good color shampoo can brighten or refresh color treated hair. Some may have color to add color to the hair in between color retouches or to minimize unwanted tones in bleached or color treated hair. These shampoos are gentle and sulfate free with a conditioning agent to smooth the porous cuticles of color treated hair. Hair with high porosity will not only absorb color, chemicals or moisture much faster but will also release it much faster. 
Recommended Products: 

Dry Shampoo
Lately Dry Shampoo has become very popular. It has become a go to styling product to add volume and texture to fine hair. Traditionally, it had been used to cleanse the hair of the elderly or bedridden who were unable to do a proper shampoo at the sink. Dry Shampoo can be used to refresh the hair between your normal shampoo routine, without water and absorb excess oils. To use this type of shampoo you simply apply the product and after a few minutes brush it out. 
Recommended Products: 

Sunday, August 9, 2015

Color Correcting Blemishes and Discolorations

Instead of using half a tube of concealer everyday to hide your blemishes color correct them instead. You just need to have a simple understanding of color theory and the color wheel to master the technique. Colors positioned opposite from each other on the wheel will cancel each out when placed on top of each other. My teacher in beauty school taught me a very basic phrasing to remember the principles of color correction: Lakers, Christmas, Mets. Lets break that down.
The Lakers uniform colors are yellow and purple. So purple can be used to neutralize yellowish casts of the skin while yellow can be used to neutralize purplish marks.
The iconic Red & Green combo is symbolic of Christmas time. For fair complexions, redness can occur as a symptom of stubborn conditions such as rosacea, port wine mark or chronic acne. Green color corrector cancels out any sign or redness on the skin.
Orange/ Blue
Individuals with deeper skin tones do not suffer from redness however they may see darkness around the mouth or have scarring from acne. Darkness in the under eye area is a universal condition. I've had clients with dark circles so severe that were so disappointed after trying every concealer on the market to hide their circles they were virtually out of options. That is until I introduced them to an orange or salmon color corrector. The dark blue black discolorations can be neutralized by placing the orange or salmon in the affected area.
Many companies make color correction products to satisfy a wide range of budgets. I will say invest in the best product you can afford. You will save money by using less concealer and less of your color correction product. In another post I will talk to you about my favorite color correction products, what I use personally for myself and some of the items in my MUA kit.  I hope this information was effective in helping you understand the science of color correction and a bit of color theory. If you have any additional questions on how to use color correction properly. Please leave them in the comments section below.

Safely Remove Hair Color Stain on Skin

Hair coloring can be a messy process so I wanted to share the best hair color remover methods. Hair color can get all over your clothes and worse your skin. Before applying hair color the smartest thing to do is to drape your clothing to protect it, and if a little color drops on your clothing, you can just throw your clothes in the machine anyhow. Also, you can keep hair color stains on hands to a minimum by wearing protective gloves. Still, what do you do to remove the residual color that is visibly often left at the hairline? Many hair color manufacturers actually make stain removers to get rid of stains on the skin post color application. You can go spend a few extra bucks to buy one of those products or try one of the DIY cheapo options I have listed below. There are several ways floating around on the internet but some of those include methods I would not recommend for your face. It can be harmful to the delicate skin of the face. However, these are 3 methods I have shared are ones I use to remove hair color stain on skin most frequently after applying hair color because you can use on face and hands. 

Hair Color Remover Method #1
At the sink while rinsing out the color, take some of the hair closest to the hair closest to the hairline and rub the the area where hair color stains remain on the skin. Yes this works! Just carefully rub the color stains with a few strands of hair and watch it fade away. I find this method works better with lighter hair color stains. Still works on deeper shades but not as effective as methods one or two. The secret to this is to get to the stains before they set.

Alcohol is a cheap method to 
remove hair color stains 
from skin
Hair Color Remover Method #2
Rubbing alcohol is a cheap way to remove color from the skin. Using either an alcohol pad or a bit of alcohol poured onto a cotton ball, gently rub the area where there is any visible hair color stain on skin. This is my fave method because it usually remove all or most of the color and alcohol can be purchased inexpensively just about everywhere. This method is frequently used in the salon.

Hair Color Remover Method #3
Another favorite is baking soda. Baking soda is another inexpensive item you probably already have at home and has multiple uses. But yup, now you can use it to remove your hair color stains as well. Make a paste by mixing it with a some dish washing liquid. Remember to always rub an area gently. The skin on the face is sensitive and Baking soda has exfoliant qualities and can be abrasive if one rubs to aggressively.

I hope you have liked the ideas I have shared and can use them. If you have any suggestions or comments on the information, please share them in the comments section.

Wednesday, August 5, 2015

Best 5 Strobing Products

First of all, if you still aren't sure what strobing is, simply put its highlighting or luminizing. This buzzword is being thrown around as if it's something new. Highlighting is a part of contouring they go together because where you have light you have shadow, but used on its on its always sorta been my lazy way to contour. Now there's a cute term for it. Back when I wasn't a Makeup Artist I was strobing and didn't know it because I didn't know how to place the dark contour lines. Strobing or highlighting provides a soft contour, adding a little chisel to the bone structure. When working on darker skin tones at the makeup counter this is a technique I have always employed due to the fact that you can't always find the right shades for deep complexions with certain brands. I would instead just create emphasis with the highlight.

So that being said, how does one become one with the strobing trend? Because now that strobing is so hot, I've seen a few people out there strobing so excessively that They look as if they sleep in a vat of highlighter, take highlighter showers then drink highlighter in their morning coffee before they step out everyday. They have literally transformed into a nightclub strobe light. Highlighting or Strobing should look as if the illumination is coming from within and is done on CERTAIN areas so the face and body to achieve that ethereal glow. You always hear folks say to highlight the high points of the face. This means the points where the sun would naturally hit your face.  To really achieve this effect you need a great highlighter or luminizing product. One that blends well and will give a glow or soft sheen to the skin. Simply using a cream concealer or light matte powder in the areas you want to highlight won't give you that strobed out illuminated glow. You need to go that extra step and use a luminizing product to turn up the wattage on the glow factor. Take a look below for a list of my favorite products and brands to get the job done.

Becca Cosmetics: Skin Perfector
This is an awesome product in shades for EVERY skin tone.  My go to shades are moonstone and rose gold. I love using both a cool shade and a warmed up shade. Sometimes I mix them together, sometimes I use a cool in certain places and warm in different areas and sometimes one or the other depending on the makeup look im rocking that day. This product comes in both liquid and pressed compact forms. I use the liquid but truly love both. Just a little of either goes a very long way and the texture of the of the compact is so silky and creamy it melts into the skin just as easily as a liquid.

Bobbi Brown: Shimmer or Brightening Brick
The shimmer bricks are to die for!!! These are also a multi use product. Great for eyeshadow or blush or adding a bit of color to the complexion the usefulness of these products is endless. The great thing is that the Bobbi Brown line is known for being a line which caters to everyday women. Women who are busy and working and may not want a super made up look on a daily basis so there are options. If you are into lots of shimmer you can purchase the Shimmer Brick and if u are a bit more conservative you can choose instead the Brightening Blocks. Both options are available in multiple shades for just about any skin tone.

Laura Mercier 
Where do I begin with this brand? O-M-G!!!! From the Bon Mine palette to the Mineral Illuminating Powder to The Shimmer Block...every single thing this brand makes in this category is simply OUTSTANDING. I dare not recommend a single product because they are all fantastic and multiple use. Head to a Laura Mercier counter right away!!!

The Balm: Mary Lou -Manizer & Cindy Lou-Manizer
I love these highlighter products because they give such a natural "from within" glow which is just what you want out of your highlighter product. These products also do double duty as blush. The Mary Lou-Manizer is more of a taupe or honey shade while the Cindy Lou-Manizer is pink. There is also a Betty Lou-Manizer which is more of a bronzer but can work as a highlighter for deeper skin tones.

Kevyn Aucoin:The Contour Book
Right now my prized possession /obsession is the The Contour Book by Kevyn Aucoin. It comes 5 great shades for highlighting, contouring and natural eye shadow looks or to fill in brows, but it comes with instructions form the genius himself!!! I carry this book with me everywhere and there is a nice sized mirror inside for on the go touch ups. There isnt a day that goes by when I do not use the book it was an awesome investment. THe contour book is a powerhouse of a product.

Tuesday, July 28, 2015

4 Steps to the Perfect Red Lip

The general rule of thumb is to focus on one feature such as the eyes or lips and play it up.
If you choose to go for that daring red lip color and channel your favorite starlet then you'll want to 
do it right. There are a few key techniques every woman can use to get a better application and longer wear in just 4 steps.
  •  Choose the right red for your skin tone
If your complexion is warm , then you will want to choose a red that has yellow, orange or even brown undertones. Those with cool complexions should look for red shades with bluish or pinkish undertones.
  • Prep your lips before application.
Apply a balm prior to application to soften the lips. After a few minutes. Dab the excess balm from your lips with a clean dry tissue. Now you are ready to apply color.
  • Match your lip liner
Find a matching lip liner and line the perimeter of the lip and fill in the entire lip with the pencil. This will keep your red from feathering and create a base that will enable the color to last longer. 

  • Apply lipstick over base
Choose your desired finish
For a GLOSSy finish, dab a bit of red or clear gloss in the center of top and bottom lip. This will also give the effect of a fuller lip. For a MATTE finish, dust the lips with a bit of translucent pressed powder.

Sunday, July 26, 2015

De-pot Your Makeup in 3 Easy Steps

Do you have melted or broken lipsticks, blushes or eyeshadows?
Don't toss them in the trash just to re-buy them. Instead de-pot them in 3 simple steps.

Getting Started:
All you need is a sanitary workspace, clean cosmetic spatula and an empty container. The spatula and containers can be easily purchased by the pack for a dollar or two at either a drugstore, beauty supply, craft store, online or  even the 0.99 cent store.

Additionally, You can save even more money by repurposing a cosmetic container from a previous purchase with a secure cover or by saving a old sample container from a cosmetic counter. If reusing a container, clean, dry and sanitize it before using. To sanitize your container, wash and dry it with a clean paper towel, then spray it with alcohol of 70% vol or higher and let it air dry.

Step by Step:
1. Prepare a clean workspace area.

2. Use a clean paper towel or napkin to protect the area from loose product or an accidental spill.

3. Finally, use the spatula to transfer the product into the new container.

Saves money, less waste. Simple and fast. 

Thanks for stopping by! 

Come back soon.

Sunday, December 7, 2014

5 Money Saving Tips for the Makeup Junkie

De-pot your eyeshadows 
  1. De-pot your eyeshadows when they crack don't throw them away....unless they crumble into a million pebbles or specks of duct then by all means grab a broom and toss it. Lets not be unsanitary. However if you notice its cracked or breaking up due to being tossed around in your makeup bag then get some little containers from ebay or your local craft store and give them a new home.

  2. Your lipstick is your blush. Cream blush tends to have a more natural finish than powder and looks like natural flush in your cheeks and is highly buildable. Try it. 

  3. Use brushes not sponges. If you want to use a sponge to blend out then cool but dont use it to apply your foundation makeup. All you are doing is wasting it as the sponge is soaking it up and transferring less to your face. This will save u 1-2 bottles of foundation purchases per year on average.

  4.  Water is your friend. drink plenty of water to stay hydrated and get a better result from your makeup application. Wash your face every nite to avoid breakouts. We wind up using more products to cover things we dont like on our face when we should be proactively looking to remedy the cause of these issues. 

  5. Embrace the color wheel. learn to mix colors and create your own combinations instead of buying products in every shade. I love to mix up my lipsticks and shadows to create colors I think compliment my complexion and overall look. I am CONSTANTLY getting compliments and people asking me what shade lipstick I am wearing then I tell them its a cocktail that I mixed myself. Its cool being unique.